H&M SUPPLIER COLOR GUIDELINE

H&M has established this Colour Guideline to guide suppliers to achieve a quicker and

better result in their colour work.

For H&M Cosmetic products a separate Colour Guide Book is available.

The guidelines and requirements in this Colour Guideline apply to all products in textile,

leather/suede, plastic, bone, wood, metal, straw, paper etc. Colour evaluation using

instrumental method should be used when applicable.

All parts of a product are equally important to check according to the same guidelines;

shell, details, accessories (including: threads, buttons, badges, zippers, interlinings,

drawstrings, stoppers) etc. Therefore these guidelines are made for everyone

involved in the colour process – garment makers, accessory suppliers, dyers,

print houses, embroidery units etc.

Each supplier to H&M is responsible for informing all of their suppliers and subcontractors

about the content of these guidelines and requirements and to make sure that they also

comply.

All H&M documents referred to in this document are found at H&Ms Supplier Website.

If you have any questions about this Colour Guideline – please contact the Colour

technician at your local H&M office.

Introduction

Colour is usually the first thing a consumer notices about a product, and one of the most

important factors of the buying decision. Colour also forms the first impression of quality.

Colour is a very subjective experience. In casual conversation, your reaction to a colour

can be considered a matter of taste. In textile applications colour evaluations can't be

handled subjectively. Therefore, colour in the textile industry must be specified and

defined to ensure quality control.

Colour technology

The main benefits of colour technology are the ability to communicate colour standards

digitally and to control the production. This approach enables everybody to use the same

colour starting point and provides an objective, consistent and accurate method of colour

evaluation through the use of commercial tolerances. It also leads to a major quality

improvement and significant lead time reduction.

Spectrophotometer tolerances give suppliers an idea of what is considered an acceptable

colour match. Dyers should utilize colour technology to “pre-screen” their samples before

submission. This allows for much faster turnaround time and quicker approvals.

Textiles are not homogenous materials, which means, that different areas of a sample

could change in colour due to structural effects, quality and/or dyeing method. The

measurement technique greatly influences the measurement result. Therefore it is

important for all involved in colour to follow the same guidelines and procedures.

Table of Content

1 Colour Standard ............................................................................................... 4

2 Colour Process ................................................................................................. 5

2.1 Colour from H&M to Supply Chain................................................................ 5

2.2 Colour from Supply Chain to H&M................................................................ 5

2.3 Production ................................................................................................ 6

3 Colour Continuity Record .................................................................................. 7

4 Colour Evaluation – General .............................................................................. 9

4.1 Additions for COS, & Other Stories and Weekday Collection ...........................10

5 Colour Evaluation - Visual Method .....................................................................11

6 Specification Illuminants ..................................................................................12

7 Colour Evaluation – Instrumental Method ...........................................................13

8 H&M Colour Coding System ..............................................................................14

9 Dyer & Supplier Expectations ...........................................................................15

10 Frequently Asked Questions ..........................................................................16

1 COLOUR STANDARD

In order to get good results it is very important to start out with a good colour standard,

and keep the same standard throughout the production chain. The only way to get

consistent results is when everyone is using the same standard.

Due to the nature of textiles - physical standards (colour cuttings) have its limitations

such as shade variation, soiling, fading etc. Numeric standards (spectral

data/reflectance values) will not change, and will give everyone the same starting point.

H&M uses numeric standards in combination with physical standards.

Physical Standard = colour cutting

o All physical standards should be stored in a dry and clean environment and at no

time left exposed to direct sunlight or in any area where soiling or damage can

occur.

o Physical standards are used purely for visual evaluation of colour and should not

be re-measured as original standard.

Numeric standard = reflectance values

The reflectance values are available at H&M Supplier website or could be bought Online.

The reflectance values are independent of dye method and fibre content, as well as light

source – therefore the numeric standard can be used for all fibre types and qualities.

o As the numeric standard can be downloaded at H&Ms Supplier Website, bought

Online and sent via mail – a dyer using a computerized match prediction program

can start lab dipping days before the physical standard arrives.

o Numeric standards can be downloaded as .qtx or .pdf files. The files called .qtx

can be imported directly by the dyer into a computerized match prediction

program. Please note - It is not possible to open .qtx files with other software

than the match prediction program. The files called .pdf are only like a printed

copy of the screen so the values must be keyed in manually by the dyer in to the

software, and then verified via the checksum figure.

o Numeric standards are used for all instrumental evaluation of colour.

o Note – not all colours will be available as numeric standards (for example: whites,

fluorescent colours).

2 COLOUR PROCESS

2.1 Colour from H&M to Supply Chain

H&M is working with a few different suppliers of physical standards. For one of them

(Pantone), supplier is responsible to order the physical and numeric standards at

Pantone’s website (www.pantone.com/smart) according to manual available at H&Ms

Supplier Website. For physical standards from other suppliers, H&M’s merchandiser sends

physical standards (cuttings) to garment maker who should forward to dyer:

o Physical standards by post; small reference to garment supplier and minimum

4x10 cm to dyer.

o Numeric standards; download the file from H&M official document site (see

previous page) send by e-mail to dyer or dyer should directly download it from

the site.

For numeric standards (reflectance values) the dyer will need a computerized match

prediction program that can import .qtx file format. The numbers must otherwise be

keyed in manually. Physical standard must not be re-measured by the dyer. In

order to get the correct result when importing .qtx, H&M’s settings must be used (see

page 13).

2.2 Colour from Supply Chain to H&M

Lab Dips

o Lab dips must be made in a process reproducible in the bulk dyeing process. Lab

dyeing method should imitate the real dyeing process. The sample should be dyed

in a similar quality as the order.

o Lab dips should be critically evaluated by dyer/supplier and only the best match,

within H&M tolerance, should be submitted to H&M. Two lab dips per shade are

maximum to be submitted.

o A spectrophotometer Colour report1 should be provided with the lab-dip, if

applicable.

o If the fabric/garment will undergo any wash/treatments; Lab-dip before

wash/treatment should correspond to standard.

o Minimum size of lab dip is 4x10 cm to H&M, and additional cutting as reference to

garment supplier.

o Lab-dips must be securely mounted to a piece of paper2, face side up, with the

grain, wales or pile running in vertical direction and marked with:

Supplier name

Dye mill name

Date

H&M Order number

H&M Colour code

Lab dip number

What part of the garment it is, e.g. body, cuff, lining

Fabric description

Specify if the garment will undergo any finishing treatment

H&M Merchandiser name

Illuminant

1 H&M Colour Report form may be used, download at H&Ms Supplier Website

2 H&M Lab dip submission form may be used, download at H&Ms Supplier Website

Yarn, Strike Off, Hand Loom etc.

o For yarn dyed jersey and heavy knit, yarns or threads can be submitted but yarn

should preferably be knitted into a swatch using a sample sock machine or

available method.

o All artworks, i.e. prints and embroideries, should be made on a similar colour

background as stated on order.

o Strike off/handloom should be large enough to show a full repeat of the design.

Windings might substitute the handloom.

o For yarn dyed woven checks/stripes it is recommended to send a piece of loom for

approval.

Trims

All details in the same product should be matching in all 3 lights sources, unless contrast

colour.

Trims, e.g. threads, buttons, badges, zippers, interlinings, drawstrings, stoppers should

be evaluated according to the same guidelines as shell, lining, cuffs etc. Trims should be

evaluated against standard considering the approved colour of shell fabric (lab-dip to

bulk).

If by exception H&M has accepted a colour of shell fabric deviating from standard colour

and the trims should be dyed to match, the supplier should send approved lab-dip (if

possible bulk) to trim suppliers to follow.

2.3 Production

Bulk

o Bulk should be critically evaluated by dyer/supplier against the standard.

o A spectrophotometer Colour report3 should be submitted to the local H&M office

together with the bulk cutting, if applicable.

o If the garment will undergo any wash/treatment. A cutting before wash/treatment

and a part of garment or a cutting after wash/treatment should be submitted.

o Minimum size of bulk cutting is 10x10 cm to H&M, and additional cutting as

reference to garment supplier.

o Bulk cutting must be securely mounted to a piece of paper4, face side up, with the

grain, wales or pile running in vertical direction and marked with:

Supplier name

Dye mill name

Date

H&M Order number

H&M Colour code

Bulk number

What part of the garment it is, e.g. body, cuff, lining

Fabric description

Specify finishing treatment, if applicable

H&M Merchandiser name

Illuminant

Counter Sample

o Please mark if counter sample is made from bulk or sampling material.

3 H&M Colour Report form may be used, download at H&Ms Supplier Website

4 H&M Bulk submission form may be used, download at H&Ms Supplier Website

3 COLOUR CONTINUITY RECORD

Colour and shades must be controlled by maintaining colour continuity records.

Dye lot to dye lot, within a dye lot and within a roll must be checked.

The swatches must be a minimum of 4x10 cm and be evaluated visually in a light box.

For the use of ISO 105-A02 Grey scale for assessing change in colour there should not be

a greater difference than 4-5 between any parts within a dye lot and roll. If difference is

more then 4-5 on the grey scale between any parts, the H&M local office must be

contacted.

Records must be available for H&M and kept for at least 6 month.

Roll Record

A Roll record should be created by fabric supplier as a reference of every roll. All

swatches in a dye lot should be loosely attached with a string into a bundle to enable

easy colour evaluation. The bundle should be marked with:

o H&M Order and Department number

o Date

o Fabric supplier

o Fabric description

o Colour description

Each swatch must be face side up, with the ends, wales or pile running in the same

direction marked with:

o Roll length

o Roll number

o Dye lot number

For washed garments the H&M garment supplier must stitch all roll swatches together, to

a patchwork (blanket), marked with roll number, and wash according to specification.

Shade Record

The H&M fabric supplier must create a shade record specifying meters/yards. Minimum

acceptable quantity for one shade is 500 m/yds. A spectrophotometer colour report is

recommended to be included in the shade record.

The records of shades/family of shades must be marked with:

o H&M Order and Department number

o Date

o Fabric supplier

o Fabric description

o Colour description

o Roll No

o Shade family

o Total length

To limit number of shades per country, the garment supplier must sort shades/family of

shades into countries and fill in:

o Planned country

Example of H&M Shade Record that may be used.

Download at H&Ms Supplier Website

For heavy knit the yarn from different dye lots should be knitted into swatches, in order

to sort the different shades into families prior to knitting, recorded with order number,

date, dye lot and family number, weight, and planned country.

Full Width Cutting

At the beginning and at the end of each roll selected for fabric inspection, cut a 30 cm/6”

full width cutting. The look, hand feel, and colour must be compared in the light box

against:

o Colour Standard

o Approved fabric

o Fabric Technical Data

Shade deviation within a roll must be checked by folding or sewing:

o Side to side

o Side-centre-side

o Beginning-end

4 COLOUR EVALUATION – GENERAL

Colours are evaluated visually in light box with the support of instrumental evaluation.

General Colour Requirements

o Standard is standard throughout the production

o Colours must be matched to standard in H&M illuminants

o Samples must not show metamerism against standard.

o Optical Brightening Agents (OBA) are only accepted in white (10-100, 10,201, 10-

213) and neon colours

o Accessories/trim should be evaluated using the same guidelines, against standard

considering approved shell fabric

o Colours must meet H&M tolerances visually and instrumentally

Standard is Standard

Colours are evaluated against standard throughout the production.

Previously bulk fabric was evaluated against approved l/d. The effect of this was that the

colour difference between two orders could be very big, and very obvious to our

customers, see sketch below.

In order to get an acceptable colour match between products, the standard has to be

kept as standard throughout the production chain. Thus standard to lab dip DE<1.0,

and standard to production (dye lot) DE<1.0. Always keep the standard as the

standard.

4.1 Additions for COS, & Other Stories and Weekday Collection

· Colour evaluation requires a tolerance of DE<1.0 within the same shade family.

· We do not accept shades from opposite shade family within one order quantity.

· We do not accept opposite shade families within one order to be packed country

wise.

· It is of high importance that shades that already are within the DE<1.0 tolerance

also have a close visual match to the standard. Always keep the standard as the

standard.

All shades must be within the tolerance of DE<1.0, and within the same shade family.

5 COLOUR EVALUATION - VISUAL METHOD

Visual evaluation is influenced by a number of variables. To control these variables all

visual evaluation of colour must be carried out in a light box and the following procedures

must be followed:

6 SPECIFICATION ILLUMINANTS

H&M requires the usage of TL830 and D65 branded according to the chart, with

the exact same Colour Temperature and CRI (Colour Rendering Index).

H&M uses the below lamps branded Philips for colour evaluation. VeriVide branded lamp

for D65 also fulfil the requirements, i.e. it is ok to use.

7 COLOUR EVALUATION – INSTRUMENTAL METHOD

H&M uses the brand Datacolor; spectrophotometer Spectraflash 600+/600x/450F

interfaced with Tools QC software. Following set-up should be used:

x

Each colour group consists of 9 sub-groups. In the centre of each group is the pure

colour of the group, i.e. 45 Red. Each sub group can have up to 99 different colour

shades.

All H&M colour codes are based on a 2-digit sub group number + a 1 digit number

describing the saturation and the last 2-digits is a consecutive number.

9 DYER & SUPPLIER EXPECTATIONS

General

The colour should meet our tolerances instrumentally and visually when evaluated by

H&M.

We expect suppliers/dyers to pre-screen lab dips and send only the best match to H&M,

maximum 2 lab dips/colour, minimum size 4x10 cm.

Equipment

We require dyers and suppliers to have a light box with our specified illuminants: TL83,

D65, A-light (tungsten, light bulb) and UV-light. More details about illuminants on page

12.

We recommend the dyers who want to invest in a colour management system, should

acquire one that is compatible to H&M. This should include a computerised match

prediction program that accepts .qtx files.

Each supplier is responsible to ensure the compatibility (e.g. accuracy and repeatability)

by checking with H&M what equipment is currently used and discuss with their supplier.

We expect operator competency. The data is only as good as the operator. Even the

most expensive systems are inaccurate if the people operating them are not trained &

qualified.

All equipment must be calibrated & maintained according to manufacturer’s specifications.

Important that the numeric standard supplied by H&M is used, and physical standard not

re-measured by the dyer! In order to get the correct result, the H&M settings must be

used.

10 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

1. Why is the result different between our measurements and the ones made

by H&M?

90% of disagreements between dyer and H&M production offices are caused by

human error rather than differences in instruments or software.

o Difference in set-up of instrument – check that your settings are the same as H&M

(see page 13)

o Variations in measurement technique – the sample must be folded until opaque

(no light passes through) and the sample must be rotated 90 degrees between

measurements. A minimum of two measurements must be made, or until average

is <DE 0.15.

o Conditioning – variations in temperature and humidity. Samples should be dry

and not too hot when measured.

o Difference in calibration of instrument – the instrument should be calibrated daily

and maintained properly to obtain the best results.

Measurements made on the same instrument, can due to the human error and the

nature of textiles give variations up to DE 0.3.

Measurements made on different models/makes can give variations up to DE 0.4.

2. Why do we need to check colours in several lights?

Colours must be checked in TL830 (H&M shop light), D65 and A-light (tungsten) in

order to make sure that the colour is not changing in appearance between light

sources. Our customers should not be disappointed when they leave our store, and

see that the colour of the garment looks different in daylight, or when they get to

their home. A-light is commonly used in homes in Europe.

3. Colours should not display a dramatic difference in colour appearance in Alight.

What is a dramatic difference? Dramatic difference is when our customer

will see it as a totally different colour when they go into A-light. The problem most

often occurs with beige or khaki green colours. An example – a product is green in

TL830 and D65, but brown in A-light.

Note – all colours look slightly different in A-light due to the energy level in the light

source.

4. Are the specified light sources the same for different concepts within H&M;

e.g. HOME, COS, footwear? And the priority order?

See top of front page.

In exceptional cases if difficulties to match the colour in all three light sources, H&M

shop light (TL830) is our primary light.

Generally D65 is the secondary and A-light (tungsten) the third, but we also consider

where the products should be used; therefore A-light (tungsten) is more important

than D65 for underwear if difficulties to match in all three.

5. Why both visual and instrumental evaluation? If the result from the machine

is Pass, why do we have to check visually?

The spectrophotometer is not a judge; it is a tool for visual evaluation. The final

decision is always based on the visual evaluation.

6. What to do if the standard is not colour constant (i.e. change of appearance

in different light sources)?

If by exception a colour standard is not constant in both D65 and TL830. We accept a

colour more constant than our standard if the colour closely matches our standard in

shop light TL830 (i.e. our primary light source).

7. What is the standard in the whole process of different production stages?

Standard is standard during all production stages. All dye lots should run in the same

direction (DL, DC & DH) as lab-dip, closely matching each other.

8. How shall we evaluate trim?

All parts of the product are equally important and should be checked according to the

same colour guidelines. If by exception H&M has accepted a colour of shell fabric

deviating from standard colour and the trims should be dyed to match, the supplier

should send approved lab-dip (if possible bulk) to trim suppliers to follow. All details

in the same product should be matching in all 3 lights sources, unless contrast colour.

9. Why can’t we open the .qtx file?

It is not possible to open .qtx files with other software than the match prediction

program.

10. Why are the imported .qtx values not the same as when physical sample is

measured?

It is impossible to dye a piece of fabric 100% level over a large area. The standards

are measured by H&M in Stockholm or by physical standard supplier, so that

everyone will get the same starting point. When the standard is re-measured it is

very likely that there will be a slight variation, and that’s why standards should not be

re-measured. It is also important that the H&M settings are used when importing a

.qtx. See also answer for question number 1.

6. The H&M physical standard is in woven cotton. Can we use the H&M

reflectance values for other fibre types and qualities?

Yes you can. Reflectance values are independent of fibre content and quality.

7. Why can’t we use OBA for pastel colours?

Using optical brightening agents (OBA) in other colours than white can cause

problems for our customers. Using OBA could give an uneven dyeing, even within the

same batch. Colours dyed using OBA can fade with sunlight, and also eventually wash

out so that the colour will not have the nice fresh appearance. If you have a dyed

white fabric using OBA, then you should not over-dye this fabric to achieve a pastel

colour. We only accept OBA in 10-100, 10,201, 10-213 and neon colours.

8. The colour code on the price tag is not corresponding to the order sheet.

What should we do?

All H&M colours have a 5-digit code. Every colour automatically gets a 2-digit price

tag colour code – this is the same as Sub Group and this is the code that will show

on the price tag. This is also the code to be used on carton marking as well as

on Supplier packing list.

If an order has 2 colours within the same sub group, for example 45-006 and 45-013,

the first mentioned sub group colour 45 will get 45 as price tag colour code and the

second 2 digit number 45 will get another price tag colour code e.g. 40. In this case

one of the codes on the price tag will not correspond to the actual 5-digit colour code.

The packing list from the order indicates price tag colour code for each

placed H&M colour code.